Ornatus Muliebris Anglicanus (The Clothing of English Women) 1640
print, engraving
portrait
baroque
figuration
portrait drawing
history-painting
dress
engraving
Dimensions height 133 mm, width 70 mm
This is an engraving by Wenceslaus Hollar, made at an unknown date, titled 'Ornatus Muliebris Anglicanus (The Clothing of English Women)'. The initial impression is of a cascade of fabric, an abundance of material that both conceals and defines the figure. The composition is dominated by the back view of a woman, her form largely shaped by the clothing she wears. Note the emphasis on texture, from the delicate lace collar to the heavy, draped skirt. Hollar masterfully uses line to create volume and depth, transforming the flat surface into a play of light and shadow. The semiotic weight of the clothing cannot be understated. It’s a signifier of status and identity, communicating social roles and expectations. The image suggests a society deeply invested in the display of wealth through fashion. Consider how Hollar’s technique of detailed engraving serves not only an aesthetic purpose but also acts as a record, a document of material culture. Ultimately, the engraving invites us to reflect on the relationship between the individual and their external presentation, and how clothing becomes a powerful means of cultural expression.
Comments
The diversity of women’s apparel in England is illustrated in this extensive costume series. Hollar represented women from all ranks of society, from the humble countrywoman 1 to the elegant noblewoman 2. The more fashionable costumes are based on eyewitness observation of the ladies at the court of the Earl of Arundel, Hollar’s primary patron. They are therefore among the more reliable visual sources for costume historians.
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