Ornatus Muliebris Anglicanus (The Clothing of English Women) 1639 - 1640
print, engraving
portrait
baroque
dress
engraving
Dimensions height 131 mm, width 71 mm
Wenceslaus Hollar created this engraving, Ornatus Muliebris Anglicanus, or the Clothing of English Women, likely in the 1660s in London. As a Bohemian printmaker in the service of the English aristocracy, Hollar occupied an interesting cultural position, observing and documenting English society from both within and without. This image is part of a series showcasing the diverse attire of women in 17th-century England. But this isn't merely a record of fashion; it's a statement about social identity, class, and the performance of femininity. The woman's attire speaks volumes about her status. The details such as the lace collar, the luxurious fabric of her gown, and the delicate fan—signify wealth and refinement. In a society governed by strict social codes, clothing was a powerful signifier. Hollar’s work reflects not just what women wore, but what they represented, and the complex ways in which identity was constructed and communicated through material culture. Note how the woman averts her gaze, as if reluctant to be observed, or perhaps fully aware of the implications of being seen.
Comments
The diversity of women’s apparel in England is illustrated in this extensive costume series. Hollar represented women from all ranks of society, from the humble countrywoman 1 to the elegant noblewoman 2. The more fashionable costumes are based on eyewitness observation of the ladies at the court of the Earl of Arundel, Hollar’s primary patron. They are therefore among the more reliable visual sources for costume historians.
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