Elegantia, of tijdschrift van mode, luxe en smaak voor dames, Februari 1808, No. 36: Résille de soie et Laine... 1808
print, engraving
portrait
figuration
romanticism
engraving
Dimensions height 218 mm, width 120 mm
Curator: What strikes me first is the overwhelming sense of delicacy. The light pastel shades and refined lines impart a certain air of gentility. Editor: It is subtle, almost fragile. We're looking at a print from 1808 called "Elegantia, of tijdschrift van mode, luxe en smaak voor dames, Februari 1808, No. 36: Résille de soie et Laine..." from the Rijksmuseum. It depicts a woman in the latest fashions. It reads almost like an advertisement for its time. Curator: Precisely, though advertisements can tell us a lot about the deeper longings of a society. That is what makes them interesting from a symbolic perspective. Here, we see an emphasis on luxury. Consider the French description beneath the image; a silk and wool knit trimmed with ruffled collar, double trim. This tells me this society places high value on beauty and craft. Editor: And who has access to such things? It reinforces societal divides, showcasing an ideal lifestyle reserved for a select few. Look at her gaze—a calculated disinterest, holding that little lorgnette up to her eye. It speaks to a certain performativity of wealth and status, even boredom. The woman is anonymous, which tells me she is representative of a "type" rather than an individual. This woman's likeness reinforces social order. Curator: An interesting point! However, I’m drawn to her expression. Does it betray a sense of vulnerability, as though she knows she's performing a role for a stage she did not set? There's a subtle tension that emerges for me between display and the underlying sense of perhaps being restricted by that display. Editor: The Romantic style certainly plays into that feeling of melancholy and interiority. But for me, this image becomes more charged if we position it against a wider context. A new kind of wealth arose in France during the reign of Napoleon, accompanied by profound inequality. Curator: Ah, so you read the overall composition not as a portrait of privilege, but as an example of historical context and potentially inequality? Editor: Not a portrait, but an intersection. Looking closely allows us to view material culture—fashion in this instance—and interrogate its social power. Curator: It’s fascinating how this single print provides such diverse yet converging lines of inquiry. The personal intertwined with collective realities. Editor: Yes. Art allows us not only to gaze backward but reflect on the continuous performances shaping our world today.
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