Elegantia, of tijdschrift van mode, luxe en smaak voor dames, Juli 1809, No. 82: Chapeau de Paille... by Anonymous

Elegantia, of tijdschrift van mode, luxe en smaak voor dames, Juli 1809, No. 82: Chapeau de Paille... 1809

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print, engraving

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portrait

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neoclacissism

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print

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watercolour illustration

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engraving

Dimensions: height 220 mm, width 126 mm

Copyright: Rijks Museum: Open Domain

Curator: Let's turn our attention to this print, residing here at the Rijksmuseum. It’s an engraving from 1809 titled "Elegantia, of tijdschrift van mode, luxe en smaak voor dames, Juli 1809, No. 82: Chapeau de Paille..." Editor: Elegant, indeed! What strikes me most is its delicate linearity; the almost weightless rendering of the fabric is achieved with remarkably fine lines. The composition feels airy, though subtly constrained within the rectangle. Curator: The illustration really speaks to the fashion ideals of the period—a very clear articulation of neoclassical styles. We see the empire waistline of the gown and the overall simplicity evokes classical statuesque forms, almost goddesses. Editor: Note also the very limited palette, essentially white on white with those almost blushed rose details in the hat and sash. It enhances that sense of ethereal grace, but the lack of dramatic value contrast somewhat flattens the pictorial space. Curator: I'm particularly drawn to the “chapeau de paille," a hat which echoes a strawberry. Strawberry symbolism often spoke to sweetness, virtue, and perhaps, somewhat cheekily, earthly delights alongside its purer associations. Fashion often acts as cultural storytelling. Editor: And the execution supports the theme entirely; even in a relatively mass-produced print, one discerns an effort towards refinement, of paring down the representational form, of implying, rather than asserting the three-dimensionality of its subject. The minimal tonal shading on the skirt serves to simply define its form rather than convincingly evoking volume. Curator: This print offers a window into the past. More than just fashion, these illustrations reflect the cultural aspirations and values of the early 19th century, ideals of femininity and elegance. They tell a story of aspiration. Editor: Agreed. The entire work, its design, rendering and construction—are all geared toward generating precisely such an emotional effect—it is the architecture of taste in graphic form.

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