Elegantia, of tijdschrift van mode, luxe en smaak voor dames, Juni 1808, No. 47: Capote de taffetas Ecossais... 1808
drawing, print, paper, ink
portrait
drawing
neoclacissism
paper
historical fashion
ink
romanticism
watercolour illustration
genre-painting
decorative-art
dress
Dimensions height 218 mm, width 120 mm
Curator: Let's discuss this delightful print titled "Elegantia, of tijdschrift van mode, luxe en smaak voor dames, Juni 1808, No. 47: Capote de taffetas Ecossais…" created by an anonymous artist in 1808. It is currently held in the Rijksmuseum. Editor: My first impression? She seems terribly overdressed for June. It’s like she raided a great aunt’s attic. Still, the colors are subtle and the figure seems so contained, as if yearning for something more exciting. Curator: Precisely. The work presents an ideal of feminine elegance. Considering its presence in a fashion magazine, this image played a role in shaping the aspirations and self-perception of women within the social hierarchies of the early 19th century. Her attire – the "Capote de taffetas Ecossais" which essentially is a bonnet of Scottish taffeta -- whispers of status, but I sense there’s a prescribed performance of femininity at play. Editor: That demure gaze, those sensible shoes – it's all so… vanilla. I keep wanting to tear off that shawl and chuck it in a paint pot. The shawl itself reminds me of faded wallpaper in a Victorian dollhouse. Curator: The relative flatness and crispness of the image come through the techniques characteristic of the print medium: delicate lines and the strategic use of color wash contribute to its aesthetic appeal but, equally, to a sense of artificiality. I mean, in Neoclassical and Romantic circles, the fashionable body was definitely being curated through these kinds of publications. Editor: "Curated," ha! Right, it’s so staged it could be a tableau vivant. But there is something charmingly fragile about it, no? A captured moment, hinting at the relentless churn of fashion, yet holding still in time. Curator: I agree. Examining pieces like this helps us understand how these early fashion plates weren’t just about garments. They mirrored the expectations, constraints, and power dynamics facing women in that historical moment. The work can be seen as a critical tool for analyzing social history through art. Editor: Fashion as armor! I see your point. Well, I now look at this picture with slightly more generosity... maybe I will hold off on shredding the shawl after all. Curator: Indeed, seeing art through a socio-historical lens, enriches our experience of it! Editor: Yeah, it certainly keeps things interesting, dunnit?
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