Elegantia, of tijdschrift van mode, luxe en smaak voor dames, April 1808, No. 42: Cornette de Tulle... 1808

Curator: The Rijksmuseum holds this interesting fashion print from 1808. The rather long title reads: "Elegantia, of tijdschrift van mode, luxe en smaak voor dames, April 1808, No. 42: Cornette de Tulle, Redingote de Berchale garnis d'un Effilé." Editor: It's remarkably austere, isn't it? Despite being a fashion plate. The paleness of the palette, only punctuated by that subdued yellow shawl, creates a mood more somber than celebratory. Curator: Austere, yes, but reflective of Neoclassical tastes, echoing back to ancient Greece. The simplicity in dress symbolized republican virtues –think purity and civic duty, ideals embraced after revolutionary periods. It's a visual cleansing after excessive ornamentation, in a way. Editor: But even in its supposed simplicity, it's all about very specific, highly valued materials, wouldn’t you agree? The 'tulle' for the bonnet, the ‘Berchale’ for the redingote – we’re looking at meticulously sourced and processed textiles marketed to a wealthy elite. Labor and resources from far afield would have fueled this. Curator: Absolutely. But it also illustrates a specific ideal of femininity – quiet grace, almost an ethereal quality enhanced by the light colors. Note her slightly averted gaze and her modest attire. The bonnet also confines her look. These elements build a story of virtue and propriety, very pointed symbols. Editor: Yet the slight off-register printing gives the print a somewhat rough, almost DIY quality in places, somewhat at odds with this presentation of high society. I see this artwork more as a fascinating artifact illustrating both aspirations and realities of material culture at the dawn of the 19th century. Curator: So, it’s a fashion statement deeply entrenched in its time. It seems to say so much, on its own! Editor: Absolutely, I agree. It makes me reflect how we constantly imbue even everyday garments with deep significance and coded meaning.