drawing, print
portrait
drawing
art-nouveau
flat colour
historical fashion
line
decorative-art
dress
Dimensions: height 246 mm, width 192 mm
Copyright: Rijks Museum: Open Domain
Editor: Here we have Francisco Javier Gosé’s “Gazette du Bon Ton. Art – Modes & Frivolités: Artists,” a print from 1914. I’m struck by its overt theatricality; it's like a snapshot of a silent film star. What can you tell us about the historical context of this image? Curator: Well, it's more than just a pretty picture. Look closely. It's 1914, and we're on the cusp of a World War, yet here's an image consumed with beauty and frivolity from Gazette du Bon Ton, a major taste-maker. Think about what kind of societal pressures influence a publication at this historical moment to promote idealized leisure rather than address geopolitical realities. What is the function of beauty being sold during that era? Editor: So, is it a form of escapism, almost a defiant gesture against the impending conflict? Curator: Precisely. Consider how the artist frames the subject. Her question, "Am I beautiful tonight?" in French, directly involves the viewer and is strategically paired with a suggestion, 'Robe pour le casino.' Now think, who is this art for and what’s being promoted? What kind of viewer is imagined here? Editor: It's clearly aimed at a wealthy, fashion-conscious elite. It's not just selling a dress, but an entire lifestyle. I'm noticing the prominent shadow. It gives a more haunting and maybe modern tone to the image. Curator: The shadow certainly disrupts the ideal, hinting at darker possibilities while still being contained within the stylish aesthetic. Did fashion magazines today take similar approaches, or are different markets created, in your opinion? Editor: It makes you wonder about the role of fashion as both a reflection and a rejection of its time. I didn’t see the nuance and the role of socio-political aspects originally, thank you! Curator: And I didn’t fully appreciate that the shadow and framing is disrupting the frivolity being presented. The art becomes something completely new!
Comments
What set this fashion magazine ‘of good taste, art and frivolity’ apart was its unique collaboration with the artists who produced its illustrations. As well as drawing the haute couture of the fashion houses, they were also granted space in each issue to present designs of their own making. In each issue, three out of ten plates were reserved for such independent creations.
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