Sampler 1690

Editor: This is Parnell Mackett’s “Sampler” from 1690, housed here at the Art Institute of Chicago. It’s created with textile, fibre art, drawing, and weaving, such interesting materials! It looks like a very complex work. What stands out to you when you see this piece? Curator: I’m immediately struck by the labor embedded within it. A sampler like this wasn't just decorative; it represented a significant investment of time and skill. Consider the material realities: the sourcing and preparation of the fibers, the dyes used to create the patterns. Editor: So, the actual creation itself holds significance? Curator: Absolutely. Think about the social context too. Who was Parnell Mackett? This sampler suggests an individual with access to resources and perhaps a certain social standing, enabling them to devote hours to such intricate work. It also likely served a practical purpose, a pattern-reference of sorts for other textiles, as well as documenting Mackett's abilities, right? Editor: I hadn't thought of it as a sort of reference guide and archive! The details, when you consider them this way, feel completely different. Curator: And it’s fascinating how it challenges the traditional art hierarchy. For centuries, needlework like this was often dismissed as 'craft' rather than 'art.' By examining the labor and materiality involved, we can see the artistry inherent in these processes. Editor: I see what you mean, It almost seems a predecessor to the Pattern and Decoration movement. I definitely view this sampler with a new appreciation now. Thinking about who made it, what went into it, and how those elements redefine what we consider “art” is extremely impactful.