Necklace by Joe Calabaza

Necklace c. 20th century

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mixed-media, fibre-art, ornament, silver, textile

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mixed-media

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fibre-art

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ornament

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silver

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textile

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jewelry

Copyright: No Known Copyright

Curator: So, here we have a piece called "Necklace" by Joe Calabaza, made around the 20th century. It’s a mixed media piece incorporating fibre art, textiles, and silver elements, now residing here at the Minneapolis Institute of Art. Editor: It’s really delicate! Looking at the photograph, it makes me think of the pale sky reflecting on the ocean on a breezy summer afternoon. It’s so light and airy! Curator: Yes, I see what you mean. Calabaza was a Native American artist, and this type of necklace is quite traditional. These strands of tiny beads, often turquoise or coral, have been traded in the Southwest since the late 19th century. The necklace has silver findings at each end for securing it. Editor: Oh, silver—subtle but very important! Silver plays such a critical, silent, anchoring role, doesn’t it? Turquoise is powerful stuff. Is it about access? Like wearing portable wealth and trade relationships right around your neck. Curator: Absolutely. These beads became very popular and their size became ever finer with better tooling. The smaller the bead the longer it took to string a necklace! Value lies, of course, in both materials and labor and signifies standing within the community, often indicating the wearer’s community status. Wearing one could communicate affiliation to different tribes or access to important trading relationships. Editor: Wow, suddenly this gossamer-thin strand turns into a heavy signifier! It's interesting how we perceive beauty, isn't it? Knowing this history kind of layers on new levels to what you find striking and noticeable. The entire idea of adornment has these deeper cultural tendrils... Curator: Indeed, and while personal taste dictates how we might see this necklace today, its value within its original cultural context was probably weighted in other forms of recognition. Editor: You're right! Suddenly it feels like so much more than just something pretty! Makes you realize what is at stake with public interpretation... Thanks for unpacking all of this for me. It is so delicate, I thought, until you made me understand how robust it really is! Curator: A pleasure! Hopefully our audience appreciates this multilayered piece and can think critically about what values they perceive here, too.

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