Collier van goud in vossenstaartvorm c. 1840 - 1850

This is a gold necklace in a foxtail shape, crafted by Johannes Mattheus van Kempen, a 19th-century Dutch silversmith. Van Kempen lived during a time of significant social change in the Netherlands, including evolving attitudes towards luxury and class. Reflect on the idea of adornment during the 1800s, particularly among the bourgeoisie. Jewelry, like this necklace, often signified status and belonging, embodying wealth, taste, and social identity. How does this object reinforce the notion of jewelry as a marker of class? The intricate foxtail design might reference the natural world, which was in vogue at the time, yet it's rendered in a precious metal, gold, symbolizing exclusivity. Consider how jewelry of this era often walked a fine line between ostentation and restraint, reflecting the complex social codes of the time. This piece offers a window into the values and aspirations of 19th-century Dutch society, and how identity was often materially constructed.