Clara Louise Kellogg (1842-1916) c. 1868

This is a photograph of Clara Louise Kellogg, made by Jeremiah Gurney around 1868, using the albumen print process. Albumen printing was the dominant form of photographic positives from the 1850s to the early 20th century, relying on coating paper with egg white and silver nitrate, then exposing it to light through a negative. The sepia tones and soft focus we see here are direct results of this chemical process. But the real significance lies in the context. Photography democratized portraiture, previously available only to the wealthy through painting. Studios like Gurney's mass-produced images, making them accessible to a wider middle class. Consider also Kellogg’s elaborate attire. Her garments, jewelry, and the photographer’s backdrop indicate her status, achieved through labor, resources, and skills of countless others. These are all captured in incredible detail through the new technology of photography. So, while this may seem a simple portrait, it speaks volumes about material culture, labor, and the rise of a consumer society during the Industrial Revolution, challenging our notions of fine art and craft.