Ornatus Muliebris Anglicanus (The Clothing of English Women) 1639 - 1640
engraving
portrait
baroque
figuration
portrait drawing
history-painting
dress
engraving
Dimensions height 133 mm, width 73 mm
Wenceslaus Hollar created this engraving titled Ornatus Muliebris Anglicanus, or the Clothing of English Women. The linear precision and detail compel the eye, presenting a vision of feminine elegance in carefully articulated textures and forms. Notice how the artist plays with contrasting elements – the soft, flowing lines of the gown against the structured fur stole. Hollar's skilled use of hatching and cross-hatching not only defines shape but also captures the light's interaction with the fabric, thus enhancing its three-dimensionality. This attention to texture invites a tactile experience, despite the image's flatness. Hollar was deeply interested in the structural and visual representation of social identity. Through his meticulous documentation of attire, he provides a semiotic system, where each fold and adornment acts as a signifier. In this work, Hollar invites us to read beyond the surface. The artwork becomes a study in representation, where the aesthetic choices reflect, and perhaps subtly critique, the cultural codes of his time.
Comments
The diversity of women’s apparel in England is illustrated in this extensive costume series. Hollar represented women from all ranks of society, from the humble countrywoman 1 to the elegant noblewoman 2. The more fashionable costumes are based on eyewitness observation of the ladies at the court of the Earl of Arundel, Hollar’s primary patron. They are therefore among the more reliable visual sources for costume historians.
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