Le Belvédère ; Robe-Manteau, de Worth 1924

Editor: This watercolor, “Le Belvédère; Robe-Manteau, de Worth” by George Barbier, was completed in 1924. I'm really drawn to the fashion – especially the coat, but the building in the background is odd; almost like a stage prop. What do you make of the setting and its relationship to the figure? Curator: The 'set' is incredibly relevant. Barbier worked during the Art Deco movement, a period where fashion and social status were deeply intertwined, particularly in depictions of women. This watercolor is an explicit representation of aspiration and consumer culture, emphasizing the lifestyle that the Worth design embodies. Editor: How so? Is it about wealth? Curator: Partly. It is a visualization of modern womanhood as defined by the upper classes and haute couture; Barbier was explicit in using fashion to frame the modern social landscape. What appears artificial in the setting reinforces the aspirational messaging within the artwork itself, placing it as both social commentary and commercial image. Who did Worth design for at this time? Editor: If I remember correctly, Worth catered to European royalty, celebrities, and socialites. So, access to Worth defined social status. Curator: Exactly. This watercolour wouldn't be out of place within advertising campaigns because its central motif is luxury and aspiration, highlighting art's role in constructing desire and normalizing wealth. Editor: So, it’s more than just a pretty picture. I see that the artist uses fashion as a short cut to describing a socio-economic class, reflecting larger political and economic structures. Curator: Precisely. Next time you see a fashion plate, consider how the art may comment on societal values of the day.