Sadie Martinot in Algerian Ancient Costume that is Still in Use, from the set Actors and Actresses, First Series (N70) for Duke brand cigarettes 1888 - 1889

This is a lithograph of Sadie Martinot in Algerian costume, printed by W. Duke, Sons & Co. in the late 19th century as a promotional card for Duke brand cigarettes. These cards were a form of advertising, capitalizing on popular interest in actresses and exotic cultures. Martinot is depicted in what is described as traditional Algerian clothing. But it is important to ask, who decides what counts as authentic and what kind of cultural work does that definition do? Algeria was under French colonial rule at the time. So this image exoticizes and commodifies Algerian culture for a Western audience. Advertisements like this played a role in shaping perceptions of other cultures during the height of European colonialism. Careful research into the history of advertising, colonialism, and performance studies can help us understand this complex image. The meaning of art is always contingent on its social and institutional context.