Bertha Ricci, from World's Beauties, Series 2 (N27) for Allen & Ginter Cigarettes 1888

This small chromolithograph card, made by Allen & Ginter, originally came packaged with cigarettes. It's one of many from the series "World's Beauties," which gives us a clue to its function. These weren't fine art objects, but rather collectibles, mass-produced to encourage repeat purchases. The printing process itself, chromolithography, was highly mechanized. Think of it as the Victorian era’s version of digital printing, using a series of stones to apply different colors. The image is striking. It depicts Bertha Ricci in elaborate garb. The intense detailing of her clothing and hat would have impressed consumers, suggesting a kind of luxury despite the card's modest nature. Labor here is removed from the artistry and is now part of the process of consumption. These cards remind us that art and commerce have always been intertwined. By looking closely at the materials and manufacturing processes, we gain insight into the social and economic context of the time, moving beyond notions of high and low culture.