Portret van een onbekende Groningse student in maskeradekostuum by Friedrich Julius von Kolkow

Portret van een onbekende Groningse student in maskeradekostuum c. 1890 - 1900

photography

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portrait

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pictorialism

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photography

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historical fashion

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costume

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monochrome

Curator: Friedrich Julius von Kolkow captured this fascinating image, "Portrait of an Unknown Groningen Student in Masquerade Costume," sometime between 1890 and 1900. It's part of the Rijksmuseum's collection. Editor: The high contrast gives the photograph an arresting theatrical feel; he's positioned with such confidence, the ruffled collar emphasizing his regal stature. Curator: Note the photographer’s information at the bottom. “Hof-Photograaf.” This indicates a Royal warrant from the Dutch court; Kolkow was obviously quite the entrepreneur! But focusing on the sitter: What drove the subject, this anonymous student, to meticulously stage himself this way? Editor: Perhaps a commentary on performativity or class distinction? He certainly appears self-aware. I wonder if that small table beside him functions as a sort of pedestal? The props indicate a story we can only attempt to unlock now, by reading into their formal composition and relation to each other. Curator: Exactly! And those costumes, though, tell a story of labor and materials. How long did it take to tailor his intricate Renaissance garb? Were these readily available or meticulously handmade, signaling a level of access and even economic display amongst the student circles in Groningen? Also, considering the costume and his pose, might this photo have been taken during some student association or university-related event? It would say so much about academic social life at the time. Editor: That’s true, the materiality here is more complex than meets the eye. It seems he also had a sense of historical theatre and costume. The monochrome palette adds to that sense of constructed performance, and the pictorialist style offers this historical moment to become an eternal theater play. The textures come alive, thanks to Von Kolkow's masterful treatment. Curator: Well, Friedrich Julius von Kolkow, with his keen awareness of photographic conventions, provides an entrancing portal to Groningen’s history! Editor: It makes one reconsider the potential for even a standard photo of this time to represent more than just an individual, but also the signs, visual markers and societal codes for the ages to come.

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