Portret van een onbekende Groningse student in maskeradekostuum 1886 - 1897

This is a photograph by Berend Mulder of an unknown student from Groningen, posing in a costume. What catches my attention is the labour involved in creating not only the image, but the garments themselves. A garment like this would have required skilled needlework, from the cutting of the cloth to the stitching and embellishment, all done by hand or with early sewing machines. The costume’s material influences its appearance, conveying status and theatricality. Think about the labour involved in textile production: from growing and harvesting cotton or flax, to spinning thread, weaving fabric, and dyeing it. These processes have imbued the artwork with social and cultural significance, reflecting traditions of craftsmanship and artistic expression. Photography itself, while seemingly instantaneous, was also labour intensive in this period. It took time to set up the shot and develop the image, which was printed on a card. By considering materials, making, and context, we begin to see how photography and costume are intertwined with broader social issues of labour and consumption.