Towel or Napkin by Anonymous

Towel or Napkin c. 19th century

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fibre-art, weaving, textile

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fibre-art

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weaving

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textile

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coloured pencil

Dimensions: 133 × 53.9 cm (52 3/8 × 21 1/4 in.)

Copyright: Public Domain

Editor: Here we have "Towel or Napkin," a textile piece from around the 19th century, here in the Art Institute of Chicago's collection. There's an undeniable elegance to its simplicity. What social narratives might be woven into something as seemingly humble as a towel? Curator: That's a fantastic entry point. When we look at an object like this, we're not just seeing a utilitarian item, but a reflection of the labor, social status, and potentially even resistance. Who do you imagine crafted this? Editor: Well, I initially imagined someone in domestic service. Could it represent resistance though, if they were enslaved? Curator: Precisely. Consider the gendered nature of textile work at the time and race: Women of color, particularly enslaved women, were often relegated to these tasks. The act of embellishment, the addition of that beautiful border – could that be a subtle act of defiance, an assertion of identity and skill within a system designed to strip them of both? Is there a coded language present in the embroidery or patterns? Editor: That’s fascinating! I never considered that even the decoration could carry such weight. It feels strange to view something functional through such a lens. Curator: But isn't it also empowering? Everyday objects often bear witness to histories of power and resilience that are systematically erased or overlooked. And those stains --are those merely traces of food? Editor: Looking at the embroidery now, I’m seeing the level of care and skill more than ever before, it shows artistry, but is a reminder of lives and skills that were hidden in plain sight. Curator: Exactly. This “Towel or Napkin” prompts us to consider how art history can intersect with social justice and feminist thought. The personal is political.

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