Cofradía blouse (huipil) c. 1910
silk, weaving, textile, cotton
pattern-and-decoration
silk
weaving
textile
figuration
hand-embroidered
cotton
decorative-art
indigenous-americas
This Cofradía blouse, a huipil, was made by a Maya artist, and it lives at the Minneapolis Institute of Art. I’m looking at this blouse and just imagining the artist at work, lost in the process. I imagine it was a slow, deliberate process of building up the pattern line by line. I can see them thinking about geometry. The blouse has this dominant diamond pattern in red. It makes me think about landscapes, a bird's eye view of fields, maybe. I see these tiny squares, like little pixels of color—red, blue, yellow—and I imagine the artist choosing each color carefully, considering how they interact. Then there are these little dancing figures near the shoulders. I wonder if the artist thought about movement as they were creating them? The way the threads build up texture must have been really satisfying, like adding layer upon layer. Textiles and painting are intimately linked. It's inspiring to think of artists all over the world, across time, in conversation with one another through color and form. It's an exchange, ideas sparking and re-sparking, pushing each other forward.
Comments
In this huipil, the red from the silk yarn has bled onto the white cotton fabric. Although it was common knowledge that silk yarns were not color-fast, the weaver's decision to use the brightly-colored yarn was a deliberate artistic choice. The run-off from the dye did not "ruin" her garment; instead, it showcased the artist's ability to purchase expensive, imported silk. This prestige blouse would be worn to a cofradía ceremony, further solidifying her high status as a woman of honor and responsibility. The cofradía is a community-based religious group, responsible for ceremonies as well as the care of their local Catholic church. A careful inspection of the delicate embroidery reveals a large double-headed eagle. Stylistically inspired by the heraldic eagle of the Hapsburg royal family of Spain, the motif also represents the continued prevalence of pre-Conquest cosmology and imagery. The eagle's ability to turn its head to look both forward and backward is a manifestation of the Mayan concept of duality.
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