Cofradía blouse (huipil) c. 1910

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weaving, textile, cotton

weaving

textile

hand-embroidered

cotton

indigenous-americas

Dimensions: 24 3/4 x 39 1/4 in. (62.87 x 99.7 cm)

This Cofradía blouse was created at some point by an unknown Maya artist, using what looks like cotton and dyed thread. I love the way the patterns emerge slowly. Up close, you can see that the rich red patterns are made up of tiny, precise stitches. These create diamond shapes, and then, look again, and there are bird-like figures on the sleeves! The texture of the embroidery feels both ancient and immediate, like a language I almost understand. I love the irregularities too, the way the white cotton is worn and stained, the tiny imperfections in the embroidery. It reminds me that art isn't just about perfection, it’s about the process, the labor, and the story of the maker. This piece reminds me a bit of Anni Albers and her wall hangings. They both share a kind of abstract language, woven with care and intention. Art is just such a great conversation across time, don't you think?

Comments

minneapolisinstituteofart over 1 year ago

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In this huipil, the red from the silk yarn has bled onto the white cotton fabric. Although it was common knowledge that silk yarns were not color-fast, the weaver's decision to use the brightly-colored yarn was a deliberate artistic choice. The run-off from the dye did not "ruin" her garment; instead, it showcased the artist's ability to purchase expensive, imported silk. This prestige blouse would be worn to a cofradía ceremony, further solidifying her high status as a woman of honor and responsibility. The cofradía is a community-based religious group, responsible for ceremonies as well as the care of their local Catholic church. A careful inspection of the delicate embroidery reveals a large double-headed eagle. Stylistically inspired by the heraldic eagle of the Hapsburg royal family of Spain, the motif also represents the continued prevalence of pre-Conquest cosmology and imagery. The eagle's ability to turn its head to look both forward and backward is a manifestation of the Mayan concept of duality.