Laura Moore, from the Actresses series (N245) issued by Kinney Brothers to promote Sweet Caporal Cigarettes 1890

This small photograph, printed around 1880 by Kinney Brothers, depicts the actress Laura Moore adorned in a style evocative of the Orient. Her costume, with its layers of beads, large earrings, and decorative sash, points towards a Western fascination with exotic cultures. We see this Orientalist trend echoed across various art forms through time. In Renaissance paintings, the Magi were often depicted in richly detailed garments. This same impulse led to the creation of theatrical sets and costumes intended to convey a sense of authenticity, even if tinged with fantasy. Moore’s pose—hands confidently on her hips—suggests a commanding presence. It resonates with the assertive stance of ancient goddesses and heroines, symbols of power and allure. The use of costume and pose acts as a mask, revealing as much as it conceals. It speaks to our collective fascination with transformation and the projection of idealized identities. The Orient, real or imagined, as a canvas for our desires and fantasies.