Lillie Leyton, from the Actresses series (N245) issued by Kinney Brothers to promote Sweet Caporal Cigarettes 1890

Editor: So, this is a photograph, an albumen print, of Lillie Leyton. It’s from 1890 and was actually used as a promotional item for Sweet Caporal Cigarettes by Kinney Brothers. The image feels so staged and deliberate; what do you see when you look at it? Curator: It’s interesting you pick up on the staginess. This was part of a whole series featuring actresses. Think about the era. Photography was becoming more accessible, but it still carried weight, a sense of permanence. An image of a woman, presented in this way, would instantly tap into cultural ideals of beauty and celebrity, even those who weren't part of mainstream social circles, their representation was equally shaped by these cultural ideals and aspirations. What kind of stories do you think this photograph tells us? Editor: I guess it tells us about what was considered attractive back then, or desirable enough to sell cigarettes, right? Curator: Precisely. Look closely at Lillie’s costume, her pose, her gaze slightly averted. The cigarette company is not just selling tobacco, but associating their brand with notions of allure and aspiration. Also, consider the circulation of these cards; the ubiquity suggests how imagery was becoming a potent force in shaping public desire. What lasting effects do you think the combination of art, celebrity, and advertisement would have on the world? Editor: I hadn't considered how deeply embedded symbolism could be in something as seemingly simple as a cigarette card. Now, I realize there are layers beneath layers that still have repercussions today. Curator: Exactly! It's about recognizing the layers of intent and cultural meaning embedded in everyday images. The picture represents a cultural dialogue happening about public memory through portraiture, photography and how one informs the other. Editor: Thank you, this has given me a whole new appreciation for these cards.