Fiori di Ricami Nuovamente Posti in Luce, page 8 (recto) 1591

This is a page from “Fiori di Ricami Nuovamente Posti in Luce,” or “Embroidery Designs Newly Brought to Light,” a book of woodcuts made in Siena, Italy, around 1600 by Matteo Florimi. Books like these were pattern books meant to be used by lacemakers and embroiderers in the creation of textiles for domestic and religious use. The designs here are presented in rows, each displaying intricate, symmetrical motifs. The designs themselves are rife with cultural meaning. The double-headed eagle is an ancient symbol of power used by the Holy Roman Empire, but one also sees floral patterns that reflect the naturalism valued by the Renaissance. Manuals such as this one helped disseminate visual ideas throughout Europe, standardizing design, and fueling a fashion industry increasingly tied to mercantile capitalism. We might turn to sources in social and economic history to better understand how these images participated in the creation of new markets for luxury goods. By examining the history of the book, we learn about the commercial and cultural life of the early modern period.