Bildnis des Gillis van Breen 1588

Hendrick Goltzius created this drawing of Gillis van Breen in the late 16th century with chalk and pen. Van Breen is depicted with an elaborate millstone collar. This fashion accessory of the European Renaissance initially began as a modest ruffle at the neckline of shirts and blouses. Over time, these ruffs grew exponentially, becoming status symbols for the wealthy. Similar to other circular motifs throughout art history, such as halos, mandalas, and wreaths, the ruff denoted high status and moral virtue. Looking back to antiquity, the circle has been a symbol of wholeness, eternity, and cyclical return, which suggests how deeply ingrained these symbols are in our collective consciousness. In this portrait, the ruff serves to frame the face, drawing attention to the subject's identity and character. This portrait of van Breen not only captures the likeness of a man, but engages us on a deeper level, echoing across time and culture.