Panel c. 19th century

This textile panel was made by an anonymous artist. It's a great example of how processes of making and the materials used can shape the appearance, and influence our understanding of the artwork. The panel is made of woven cotton, with printed mordant and dyes applied to create the intricate designs. The process of mordant printing involves applying a metallic salt to the fabric, which then attracts and binds the dye to the cloth in a patterned design. The artist uses these techniques to create the panel’s symmetrical designs and patterned borders that gives it a complex yet unified visual appearance. The choice of cotton, a widely available and relatively inexpensive material, speaks to the panel’s likely origins in a commercial workshop. The labor-intensive processes of weaving and printing suggest a division of labor, with different workers specializing in each stage of production. Understanding how it was made and what materials it is made of, helps us to appreciate the context of the work, and challenges the traditional distinction between craft and art.