Bespanningsstof, jacquardweefsel met patroon van spitsovalen met ranken, paarse inslag op bleekgele ketting c. 1920 - 1930

Curator: Here we have a jacquard-woven fabric created by Theo Nieuwenhuis sometime between 1920 and 1930. It’s titled "Bespanningsstof, jacquardweefsel met patroon van spitsovalen met ranken, paarse inslag op bleekgele ketting," which helpfully describes the purple weft threads contrasting against a pale yellow warp. Editor: It gives off an aura of subdued elegance. The repeated oval pattern almost seems to pulsate, but it feels more delicate than dynamic, if that makes sense. Curator: Absolutely. Nieuwenhuis was deeply involved in the Dutch Art Nouveau movement. The weaving is a beautiful demonstration of how the aesthetics and ethos of the movement impacted the decorative arts during the interwar period. Consider how Art Nouveau aimed to reject industrial production by incorporating handcrafted elements. The slightly imperfect weave allows it to have a unique, handmade feel that contrasts mass production. Editor: It’s interesting that you mention industrial production because although the design seems rooted in handicraft and the use of natural forms, this piece still presents a mechanized sensibility. I am thinking about its uniformity and pattern. It walks this interesting line between handicraft and industry. It evokes its historical moment, in a period defined by these conflicting themes. Curator: That’s an astute observation. It is precisely this tension that defines much of the design from this era. What might be viewed as the rigidness of repetition, can be seen as reflecting broader societal shifts as design standards and ideas began to change dramatically with the advance of modern technology. I would suggest, furthermore, that in terms of color the stark contrast suggests an optimism in this period following WWI. Editor: Yes. Ultimately, beyond its artistic merit and place within a significant cultural movement, "Bespanningsstof" offers insight into the socio-economic landscape that it grew out of. I wonder, what pieces of furniture this jacquard originally was woven for. Curator: Exactly! The historical background offers such an in-depth and vibrant image. And it certainly inspires thought regarding this textile. It is also interesting to consider how the principles displayed in this textile still have significant importance for artists even today.