Shawl (Kussaba) c. 19th century

This large shawl, or "Kussaba," of unknown origin, presents a complex pattern woven with what seems to be wool or silk. The design features the boteh, or paisley motif, a symbol with deep roots in Persian and Indian cultures. The textile’s cultural significance extends beyond mere decoration. Shawls like this one were once highly valued commodities, indicators of status and wealth, playing a role in trade networks and colonial economies. The arrangement of the boteh motifs in concentric layers might reference courtly designs. But without knowing the time and place of its making, it is hard to pinpoint exactly what this suggests about the social hierarchy of the time. Understanding textiles such as this one requires looking into costume history, trade records, and museum collections. By doing so, we can better understand the social conditions that shape artistic production. And that’s where the historian’s work begins.