Jasje, zgn. wagenjas, van fijn batist, versierd met geborduurde incrustaties in de vorm van een vlinder en gefestonneerde stroken; sluiting met één parelmoeren knoop 1909

Curator: This garment, dating back to 1909, is identified as a ‘carriage jacket,’ crafted by the firm of Philippona Ketelaar from fine batiste fabric. The jacket is adorned with delicate embroidered inlays forming the shape of a butterfly, with scalloped edging and a single mother-of-pearl button closure. Editor: It strikes me as so airy and delicate. The way the light filters through the batiste, combined with the layering of those lace-like ruffles, gives it an almost ethereal quality. It's deceptively simple in its design, yet incredibly intricate. Curator: Carriage jackets like this one were considered a staple piece in the wardrobes of upper-class women during the Edwardian era. Think of it as an early automotive accessory; a practical but decorative garment for chilly rides. It represented social status, leisure, and, to an extent, liberation, given the increasing freedom of movement afforded by new transportation technologies. Editor: The formal elements really echo that sense of transition you mentioned. Note how the butterfly motif is rendered—not in full, bold colors, but rather subtly incised and almost camouflaged within the overall texture. It speaks to the theme of transformation and understated elegance so prevalent in that period. And the materiality of batiste; chosen not for its warmth but precisely for its ability to refract light in this delicate manner, creates visual interest without weighing down the silhouette. Curator: Precisely. The choice of materials here wasn’t merely practical; it was deeply intertwined with the prevailing social and aesthetic values of the time. Remember, too, the broader context of women's evolving roles. Even something as seemingly simple as the design and function of clothing can illuminate the nuances of changing gender dynamics within a rapidly evolving society. The jacket subtly embodies that social moment of a wealthy lady riding in her motorized vehicle in the big city. Editor: That interplay between functionality, aesthetics, and social messaging, brought into delicate focus via fabric and embroidery, really gives this jacket a significance beyond just mere clothing. You get a real sense of not just how it looks but what wearing something like this represented back then. Curator: Absolutely, it's about unlocking the narratives embedded in these textiles. Editor: I completely agree. Seeing how function and form worked to influence the narrative enriches our understanding of beauty through this tangible and symbolic garment.