Dimensions: length 148.0 cm, waist 68.0 cm, width 160.0 cm
Copyright: Rijks Museum: Open Domain
This "Gown (fourreau)" was made by an anonymous artist with what appears to be lace, and embroidery. The way each stitch builds up, like a painter layering brushstrokes, reveals the maker's hand and a process of loving dedication. The dress is so beautiful. The material is cream, with lavender accents, and rust coloured flower motifs. The texture is everything here. Look at the upper bodice. See how the fabric is gathered, almost pleated, as it moves away from the central floral motif. I can imagine the artist working each stitch slowly and methodically until a pattern emerges. It reminds me of Hilma af Klint's drawings, in that this artist found their own language with a limited tool kit. In both cases, their work embraces imperfection and ambiguity.
Thanks to the designer Paul Poiret tubular dresses became fashionable from 1906. In French this slender silhouette is called fourreau, or sheath. The purple taffeta divides this dress into three parts and creates the illusion of short sleeves. All of this is typical for 1910, as are the voluminously rendered flowers. They are not embroidered flatly, but fashioned of tiny loops and knots.
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