Staal bespanningsstof naar ontwerp van Theo Nieuwenhuis in passe-partout c. 1910

This textile design was created by Theo Nieuwenhuis. It’s a jacquard woven fabric featuring a dense, stylized floral pattern, mounted in a passe-partout. The key to understanding this work lies in the jacquard process. This is a mechanical loom, invented in the early 19th century, that automates the weaving of complex patterns. Prior to its invention, such intricate designs could only be achieved through laborious hand-weaving. The jacquard loom, in effect, democratized pattern, making it available to a wider market. Here, the choice of a steel warp—that’s the set of yarns held taut on the loom—adds a subtle sheen to the textile. Combined with the stylized floral design, the effect is at once modern and luxurious. It speaks to the ambitions of designers like Nieuwenhuis, who sought to reconcile industrial production with artistic expression. The finished product speaks to the complex relationship between design, technology, and labor in the early 20th century. It reminds us to consider how mechanized processes have transformed not only the making of objects, but also their cultural value.