Man's Court Costume c. 1936

This watercolor and graphite rendering of a man's court costume was made by Jessie M. Benge. The artist has depicted a lavish garment, designed to impress. The floral details, rendered in precise detail with graphite, would have been laborious to produce as actual embroidery. The image speaks to the economies of labor involved in producing courtly fashion. Consider the hours of handwork required for a garment like this; the division of labor, with specialist workshops dedicated to particular stitches, patterns and materials. These trades were highly gendered, with women often in charge of the more ornate elements. Benge’s rendering also invites us to consider the social context of these garments: to see these materials and making processes as integral to the costume’s very meaning. Far from being mere display, each stitch signifies something about the wearer’s status, taste, and place in the world. Approaching fashion as a form of skilled labor and social communication allows us to consider the full cultural significance of this court costume.