Chikarkarpe robe with heart-shaped embroidery c. late 19th century

This robe, with heart-shaped embroidery, was made by an anonymous maker. The Ainu people of Japan created robes like this one, called Chikarkarpe, using elm-bark cloth called attush, woven from the fibers of the inner bark of elm trees. Attush is known for its durability and breathability, ideal for the Ainu's cold climate, and humid summers. Chikarkarpe robes involved considerable labor, from harvesting bark to weaving the cloth. The geometric designs, embroidered onto the cloth, are made with dyed cotton thread, and hold symbolic meaning related to nature and spirituality. Traditional Ainu garments incorporate these designs not just for decoration, but for protection. The patterns require both planning and skillful execution, reflecting a deep connection to Ainu cultural values and beliefs. The artistry and workmanship seen in pieces like this challenge assumptions about "primitive" art. They show how craft practices encode complex histories and worldviews.