Bowler hat c. 1890

This bowler hat was made in Japan in the nineteenth century by Hayakawa Shōkosai I, using only woven bamboo. The choice to render this most ubiquitous symbol of Western, capitalist culture in such a humble material is remarkable. Note how the inherent qualities of bamboo – its lightness, flexibility, and capacity to be split into fine strands – have been exploited here. The hat is meticulously woven, with a tight, even texture that mimics the look of felt or wool. But the slight irregularities in the bamboo, and the subtle sheen of its surface, give the hat a warmth and tactility that a machine-made version could never achieve. The labor involved in creating this hat would have been considerable. Each strand of bamboo had to be carefully selected, prepared, and woven into place by hand. We can think of this object as a commentary on the rise of industrial capitalism, with handcraft offering a compelling, and artful, alternative. It’s a reminder that the way things are made matters just as much as what they look like.