Dimensions: diameter 23 cm, height 5 cm
Copyright: Rijks Museum: Open Domain
Curator: This fetching headpiece from the mid-1930s, attributed to Hut Laco, is crafted from red felted wool and adorned with black velvet and a flamboyant feather. What strikes you about its construction? Editor: It's intriguing! I'm curious about how the choice of materials-- the smooth, dense felt juxtaposed with the textured velvet and then the light, airy feather—how that affects its overall statement? Curator: Precisely. Let’s think about the textile industry and available technologies at that time. Red felted wool, a durable material, points to both functionality and a certain social status— suggesting it may have been widely available to the bourgeoisie. Yet the inclusion of velvet, albeit “gekreukeld,” speaks to a desire for refinement and ornamentation and probably consumption patterns of that time. What kind of labour was involved in these particular embellishments? Editor: So you are wondering whether this choice reflects a specific class aspiration or perhaps limitations? Did the use of mass-produced materials democratize fashion or just create new tiers of exclusivity? Curator: Both! And don’t forget about the production and availability of these particular types of dyes as a material factor of art production. Consider the exploitation within that. Think of the work required to produce even a relatively "simple" design. The design process and its production impacts the culture of the era. The feather, the velvet - what stories can we weave about that? Editor: That’s a fantastic point. Looking at it through the lens of material production really shifts my understanding. I initially saw just an attractive hat, but now I see the embedded history of labor and class. Curator: Exactly! Seeing the sum of parts that make up the aesthetic result lets us trace supply chain history while also understanding individual design decisions. A closer view always leads to something new.
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