The Duchess of York before 1893

This photogravure of the Duchess of York was made by Joseph Ridgway Bridson and printed by the Photo Etching Co. It’s striking how Arthur James Melhuish’s text accompanying the image highlights the photographer’s need to discover “the most fitting pose for the face and figure”. This reveals a moment in history where photography sought to emulate painting. It exposes a societal desire to control and stage identity through portraiture. The Duchess, with her pearl choker, delicate features, and fashionable dress, embodies an upper-class femininity. The soft focus and the angle of the head, slightly tilted, position her as an object of admiration. However, we might also consider the Duchess as an active participant in the construction of her own image and, therefore, her power. Ultimately, this photogravure captures a carefully curated representation of aristocratic womanhood in a rapidly changing world.