[Actress with curly hair], from the Actors and Actresses series (N145-8) issued by Duke Sons & Co. to promote Duke Cigarettes 1890 - 1895

Curator: Let's take a look at this fascinating print: "Actress with curly hair" from the Actors and Actresses series, created between 1890 and 1895 by W. Duke, Sons & Co. These were produced to promote Duke Cigarettes. What's your immediate impression? Editor: My eye is drawn to the dynamic curl pattern contrasting with the staged, plain background. The sepia tone evokes nostalgia, and the actress's gaze gives the image an intimate feeling. Curator: Absolutely. These cards served a dual purpose. On one hand, they promoted consumerism and brand loyalty toward the Duke Cigarettes brand; on the other, they helped to disseminate and democratize access to imagery of contemporary actors. Editor: True, the image as a pure surface invites formal reading too. Look at the gentle S-curve of the ribbons accentuating the waist and neckline, or how the large, puffy sleeves of her dress frame her upper body, balancing the curls above. These elements coalesce in a very visually balanced composition. Curator: It's interesting to consider who exactly chose these figures. Duke's choices normalized ideals and presented limited options of "femininity". Advertising plays a very prominent role in constructing gender identity through representation and consumerism, and it would be naïve not to recognise that context as we are confronted with such commercial photography. Editor: I'd agree; there’s clearly a curated experience at work, and it’s right to question how images participate in forming societal conventions. At the same time, her half-smile hints at individuality. Even within the restrictions imposed by the style of photography at that time and the intention behind its creation, you see the subject's subtle agency emerging in details. Curator: Indeed, in this era, it's challenging to disentangle these promotional portraits from celebrity culture. Their distribution through cigarettes intertwined fame with vice, which could elevate some of the actresses by promoting them, but perhaps simultaneously damaged their reputations through associations with tobacco use. Editor: Thinking about her smile reminds me how this era approached capturing and portraying humanity in early media. From a material perspective, each card encapsulates a moment, revealing nuances only available when scrutinizing photographic surface. Curator: Well said. Seeing this image through both a material lens and cultural lens certainly highlights its multifaceted value, both as artistic expression and social artifact. Editor: Agreed; these dual approaches give it renewed context—shedding new light to its form and substance.