An Explosion of Fashion Magazines by Carrache

An Explosion of Fashion Magazines c. 1867

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Dimensions height 281 mm, width 210 mm

Curator: This mixed-media piece, blending lithograph and watercolor, comes to us from around 1867, entitled "An Explosion of Fashion Magazines." It offers such a rich lens through which to consider the construction of femininity and consumer culture during the Second Empire in France. Editor: Explosion is right! It feels like walking into a room piled high with petticoats and perfume. The colors are surprisingly vibrant, given the age—that rosy pink is particularly striking. Curator: The image showcases two women, likely archetypes meant to reflect the latest trends, and these types of fashion plates reinforced particular class aspirations. You have to understand the prescriptive nature of such imagery. It spoke to very particular norms that sought to prescribe the fashionable appearance for bourgeois women of the time. Editor: Absolutely. One can almost feel the weight and confinement of those dresses! Look at the layers, the ruching, and the constricting high collars—it’s a gilded cage of sorts, right? But the artist still manages to convey a certain sense of elegance. Or is that just me? Curator: I agree with your points here, and can appreciate that reading. Yet I tend to perceive more tension between confinement and empowerment, and even between individuality and conformity in pieces like these. The clothes delineate not just freedom and physical movement but class distinction, as well as participation in the economy as the first department stores began booming at this time. Editor: The positioning and body language—one figure is turning away as the other faces us front on with a knowing look– definitely adds another layer of complexity. One could feel this knowing, quiet gaze of our women almost like that of a silent protest, a rebellion even in the form of subtle elegance, or like some subtle insider joke only our protagonists and the upper-crust can understand. The umbrella feels pointed. And it's like they know they're being watched, and judged! Which adds such a fun dimension, don’t you think? Curator: Precisely! It captures a really specific moment, a period when fashion was both spectacle and social tool. The piece reminds us how deeply entangled fashion is with questions of identity and societal structures. Editor: Exactly, a real snapshot into the fashionable psyche! Next time you have something fun and fashion-centric I’ll make sure I won’t miss it for anything.

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rijksmuseum's Profile Picture
rijksmuseum over 1 year ago

Starting from the 1850s, fashion magazines became more affordable and acquired a wider readership. The invention of the sewing machine around 1850 made it easier for people to make their own clothes. Ready-made garments were now also on offer, with fashion plates providing vendor addresses, such as the Maison Gagelin in Paris.

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