Jacket c. 1900

This "Jacket" by Nēhiyawak (Cree), displayed at the Minneapolis Institute of Art, presents an intriguing study in contrasts through its material and design. The soft tan leather provides a muted backdrop for the vibrant beadwork. Notice how the floral patterns, traced along the jacket's opening, against the grid-like structure of the fringe, create a dynamic tension. This tension is critical. It destabilizes any singular reading, setting up a semiotic play where nature and culture intersect. The jacket operates as a sign, reflecting both the wearer's identity and the broader cultural narratives, with beadwork and leather signifying artistry and utility. What stands out is the jacket's openness, literally and figuratively, as a meeting point of tradition and transformation.