Le Caracul (L'Astrakhan) 1860s

This is a photograph, "Le Caracul," by Pierre-Louis Pierson. Pierson worked in the mid-19th century, during the rise of photography. He was celebrated for his portraits of prominent figures, including Virginia Oldoini, Countess of Castiglione, the probable subject of this image, whose collaboration with Pierson produced hundreds of photographs, many of which document her elaborate gowns and hairstyles. Here, the Countess is draped in a lavish astrakhan shawl and hat. Astrakhan, made from the wool of newborn Karakul lambs, was highly prized for its tight, lustrous curls, and immediately signaled wealth and status. The photograph then, is a study in materiality. Pierson, by capturing the sheen and texture of the fur, underscores its luxurious quality, while also revealing something of the labor involved in its production. From the rearing of Karakul sheep to the processing of the wool, each step contributes to the image. Ultimately, this image blurs the line between the fine arts and the material culture that the Countess inhabited.