Le Caracul (L'Astrakhan) 1860s

This photograph, “Le Caracul”, was made by Pierre-Louis Pierson at an unknown date, using photographic processes common to the mid-19th century. The subject's dress is the focus here, made from caracul, also known as astrakhan. It is a textile crafted from the tightly curled fleece of newborn lambs. The rearing of these animals was a highly specialized practice, and the processing of the fleece into garments involved many stages of hand labor. The textile itself signifies luxury, and the skill required to make such a dress elevated the garment to the status of high fashion. Beyond aesthetics, the dress also speaks to a complex web of labor, politics, and consumption. The acquisition of the raw materials, the skilled labor of the seamstress, and the wealth required to commission such a garment, all reflect the social and economic structures of the time. Pierson’s photograph, therefore, does more than simply capture an image; it encapsulates a story of materials, making, and social context.