Man's Shoe Buckle c. 1936

Charles Criswell created this drawing of a Man’s Shoe Buckle, a seemingly modest subject which, in its time, spoke volumes about social status. Consider the late 19th century, when Criswell was active; fashion was a rigid signifier of class and gender. These buckles, rendered with careful detail, reflect the sartorial codes that governed masculine identity. Footwear, like many aspects of dress, wasn't merely functional; it was a statement. Buckles, especially ornate ones like these, indicated a level of affluence and attention to detail that would have been expected of a gentleman. The drawing itself, in its delicate precision, mirrors the care that would have been invested in selecting and maintaining such accessories. It begs the question: what does it mean to adorn oneself, and what does that say about the wearer’s place in the world? How have these symbols of identity evolved, or devolved, over time?