The Sultana-Mother 1700 - 1737

Jean Baptiste Vanmour painted this oil on canvas portraying The Sultana-Mother. The most striking thing about this painting is the sumptuous materiality of the clothing. Look closely at the rendering of the ermine trim on her robe, each little black tail painstakingly described. Note also the soft, light-catching folds of the silks, and the gleam of jewels at her waist. Vanmour paid close attention to the way different materials catch and reflect the light, suggesting the wealth and status of his subject. The painting is not just a portrait of a person, but of a whole world of artisanal production and global trade. The labor of countless anonymous makers is condensed into this single image. By focusing our attention on these elements, we can move beyond the mere representation of status, and consider the human cost of luxury.