Jasje van beigebruine tafzijde, versierd met bruine zigzag band. Rond gesneden voorpanden. Ongevoerd. after 1859
Curator: This beige-brown taffeta jacket, embellished with brown zigzag ribbon trim, dates back to sometime after 1859. The rounded fore panels and lack of lining suggest a certain informality, despite the elegance of the silk. What are your initial thoughts? Editor: It strikes me as quite rigid, despite the fluidity implied by the fabric. The broad sleeves and cut give it a squared appearance, but the light plays beautifully on the surface. There is a visual tension here. Curator: Yes, the interplay between structure and material is intriguing. Considering the historical context, such taffeta would be produced via specialized looms—possibly even mechanized looms—signifying the development of mass manufacturing impacting even luxury garment production. The zigzag trim likewise speaks to standardized embellishment. Editor: True. The applied trim provides clear visual paths—horizontal at the sleeve edges, then vertically up and around the jacket opening. The zigzags add movement. Overall, the form emphasizes the waist, yet there is no contouring. What effect was this garment meant to project? Curator: Well, beyond simple aesthetics, this would signal socio-economic positioning, clearly a garment meant for the rising middle-class who desired to emulate aristocratic styles. Mass production facilitated broader consumption—albeit perhaps not mass availability. And even in the 1860s, the textiles involved significant international trade relationships between Europe and Asia. Editor: Fascinating. Viewing the piece strictly through its formal arrangement and materiality is revealing. How the silky surfaces interact with those zigzags offers a microcosm of that socio-economic climb. Thank you! Curator: Absolutely. Thinking through the supply chains involved helps enrich an otherwise decontextualized view of textiles.
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