Ceremonial punchu (poncho) c. 20th century

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fibre-art, weaving, textile

pattern heavy

tribal design

fibre-art

weaving

textile

fashion and textile design

geometric pattern

repetitive shape and pattern

geometric

repetition of pattern

pattern repetition

textile design

beaded

layered pattern

indigenous-americas

Dimensions: 27 5/8 x 50 1/2 in. (70.17 x 128.27 cm) (folded)

This ceremonial punchu, or poncho, was woven by the Quechua people, and it is an amazing feat of design. With its rhythmic stripes, it’s all about process, about the time spent, the attention given. Look closely. You can almost feel the texture, the give of the wool. The colors aren't shouting. It is more like a whisper of reds, browns, yellows and greens. See that band of chevrons about a third of the way down? Each one is like a tiny decision, a little shift in direction, made one after the other. It's not just a pattern; it's a conversation happening right there on the cloth. I am reminded of the work of Anni Albers and her interest in weaving as a language, a tactile and visual form of communication. It is never fixed. It's always moving, always becoming.

Comments

minneapolisinstituteofart over 1 year ago

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Punchus, or ponchos, became popular in the Andes during Spanish colonial rule (1533-1825). Following a Native uprising in the 1780s, the Spanish viceroy forbade tunics, believing them to be a source of indigenous nationalism. As an alternative, men began wearing ponchos, which were essentially tunics with open sides. They were quickly embraced as a new symbol of Native identity. Ironically, the Spanish military also appreciated the versatility of ponchos, adopting them as part of their uniform.