Rouwsteek van zwart vilt; model chapeau bras before 1843

Curator: We're looking at an intriguing piece here at the Rijksmuseum: a "Rouwsteek van zwart vilt," or mourning hat of black felt. The museum estimates it to have been made before 1843. Editor: My immediate impression is somber elegance. The contrast between the dark felt and the shimmering gold trim creates an understated yet striking visual. I can see a narrative of power and perhaps subdued grief contained in it. Curator: Absolutely, let's delve into the materials. This "chapeau bras" as it's called, would have been crafted using carefully chosen textiles: fine black felt for the body of the hat to convey grief and somberness and ornamented with braiding, possibly silk, adding textural richness and a subtle glimmer that doesn't overwhelm the purpose of the hat. I find the use of the felt extremely interesting, because the soft but matted quality contrasts quite strikingly with the more luxurious gold decoration on the side, and highlights its utilitarian roots even in something like court dress. Editor: Contextually, we should remember that such an object wouldn't be just about personal sentiment; it speaks volumes about the rituals and performance of mourning in a specific time period. These hats, and mourning attire more generally, indicated social status as much as grief. Curator: Indeed. These textiles also reflect a particular type of craftsmanship and possibly division of labour at the time. Was it a small atelier, or was it part of a bigger enterprise providing textiles and garment work to members of court? How did social class and the manufacture of these textiles relate? Editor: Considering this, it’s really a visual language communicating adherence to social norms. To not wear proper mourning attire was potentially a significant political statement. The production of pieces like this mourning hat directly responds to socio-political expectations within the period. A very clear performative and regulatory act in wearing, a type of institutionalized mourning. Curator: It's quite telling how even in these sombre garments the societal status and class were displayed and reinforced. Thank you. Editor: Yes, a potent object, weaving together personal emotion, social custom, and material culture into a single, powerful statement.