Ronde rouwsteek van zwart haarvilt, versierd met zwarte struisveren en een zwarte lis over een oranje strik c. 1789 - 1810
mixed-media, textile
portrait
neoclacissism
mixed-media
textile
decorative-art
miniature
Dimensions height 24.0 cm, height 18 cm, width 18 cm, length 43 cm, width 16.5 cm, length 18.5 cm
Curator: What we have here is a hat from around 1789 to 1810, a "Ronde rouwsteek van zwart haarvilt, versierd met zwarte struisveren en een zwarte lis over een oranje strik," or "Round mourning stitch of black hair felt, decorated with black ostrich feathers and a black lis over an orange bow" crafted by G. Nijman. Looking at it, it's quite striking. Editor: Yes, it certainly has a dramatic flair, almost theatrical, with the intense black and those plumes. What statements were these fashion accessories attempting to communicate to society? Curator: It speaks volumes about the wearer's identity within a complex societal structure. Mourning attire, particularly for the elite, became increasingly codified in the late 18th century. The ostentatious display of grief, indicated through lavish fabrics and dramatic silhouettes, also inadvertently revealed a lot about the complex economic realities in Europe and burgeoning notions of colonialism. Editor: So, it's less about simple mourning, and more about a visual language that encodes economic and societal narratives? How did people "read" this hat at the time? Curator: Precisely! Black, the color of mourning, also served as a symbol of wealth. The type of material used and its crafting reflect broader intersections with gender, race, and even colonial structures of exploitation and ownership. Considering the date, wouldn't you agree it resonates with social ideas that sparked, for example, the French Revolution? How is mourning visually displayed and understood in contemporary society? Editor: Fascinating. It makes you realize how even seemingly simple objects can hold entire worlds of meaning. Thanks for making me see this piece through that lens. Curator: And thank you for allowing me to share my viewpoint!
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