De Marsy, from the Actors and Actresses series (N145-7) issued by Duke Sons & Co. to promote Duke Cigarettes 1880s

This is a promotional cigarette card, made by W. Duke, Sons & Co., depicting the actress De Marsy. Note the choker. Throughout history, we see this ornament used as a tool of subjugation and control, as well as status. Consider the image of Anne Boleyn, perpetually branded by her beheading, as she is often depicted wearing a jeweled choker to obscure the mark. In other eras, such as the French Revolution, red ribbons tied around the neck à la victime became a potent symbol of solidarity with those who faced the guillotine. Here, the actress’s choker might speak to the constraints placed upon women in the entertainment industry, a subtle nod to the complex role of actresses and their objectification. These symbols echo through time, perpetually resurrected, transformed, and imbued with new significance.