Le Moniteur de la Mode, 1883, No. 32, Pl. 2021 : Etoffes pour deuil (...) 1883

J. Bonnard created this print titled 'Le Moniteur de la Mode' in 1883. The somber attire of the figures speaks volumes about the period's mourning customs. Notice the parasol, an ancient symbol of status, here repurposed as a shield against the sun, indicative of a guarded demeanor. The Victorians often imbued fashion with profound emotional significance, especially around mourning. The nuances of color and fabric denoted the wearer's relationship to the deceased and their position within society. In antiquity, the umbrella sheltered emperors and deities, a motif repeated in Renaissance art with canopies over the Virgin Mary. These protective canopies mirror the psychological need for solace in times of grief. The collective memory of the umbrella’s protective function adds a layer of psychological weight. This image is a complex interplay of loss, memory, and the symbolic language of fashion.