La Chemise 1860s

Pierre-Louis Pierson made this photograph, called ‘La Chemise,’ in France, though the exact date remains unknown. Here we see a woman, likely an actress or model, posed in a state of undress. During the Second Empire, the rise of photography coincided with the growth of consumer culture and celebrity. Pierson, as a commercial photographer, understood the market for images of fashionable women. But what makes this photograph more than just a commercial product is the way it flirts with the boundaries of eroticism and respectability. Note the woman's gaze. It's direct and confident, challenging the viewer's gaze. Also, the title, ‘La Chemise,’ suggests intimacy, but the woman's pose is hardly inviting. The state of the print is interesting as well. The damage inflicted to it could reflect a rejection of this type of image, or censorship. To fully understand this image, it’s useful to consider the social norms of the time. Researching the history of fashion, photography, and censorship in Second Empire France can provide a richer understanding of the photograph's complex social meanings.