Collier by G.J.J.M. Bielen

Collier c. 1908 - 1910

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photography

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portrait

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art-nouveau

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jewelry design

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photography

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decorative-art

Dimensions: length 43 cm, weight 30.6 gr

Copyright: Rijks Museum: Open Domain

This delicately wrought necklace was crafted by G.J.J.M. Bielen from gold and mother-of-pearl. It’s hard to know exactly when it was made, but this piece speaks to me of process, of an almost meditative repetition and commitment to the making process. The whole thing has a lightness and a fragility to it, almost like a drawing in gold. If you look closely, you can see where Bielen meticulously twisted and shaped each little filigree detail. The goldwork is so intricate, each component a small work of art. The pearls act as focal points, their smooth, opalescent surfaces offer a calm contrast to the elaborate metalwork. The little square sections are where the piece comes alive for me, each is identical, but unique – how did Bielen make them and how long did it take? It reminds me of the work of artists like Anni Albers who approached textile work as a form of drawing, exploring the expressive potential of repeated patterns and forms. This piece is a beautiful example of art as a form of conversation, where different materials and techniques come together to create something new.

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