Tea Gown with a Pleated Skirt c. 1925 - 1930

Here we observe the Tea Gown with Pleated Skirt, a confection crafted by Madame Watrigant. A delicate ecru palette evokes a sense of restrained elegance, an effect enhanced by the varied textures and opacities of the layered textiles. The gown is articulated through distinct horizontal zones – the lacy yoke, the smooth bodice, the pleated skirt and the flounced hem. This division destabilizes the unitary form of the dress, engaging with a broader artistic concern of the period: the fracturing of traditional wholes into distinct, yet related parts. The verticality of the pleats counters the horizontal bands, creating a subtle tension within the garment’s structure. Note how the lace introduces a play of light and shadow, a semiotic dance that enriches the gown’s visual texture. The varying levels of transparency throughout the design contribute to a depth that invites not just visual, but intellectual engagement. This complex layering of texture and form, typical of its time, transforms the simple dress into a sophisticated discourse on materiality and perception.